Running on what's left of Blackburn Fork Road
Zion Road bridge, the only modern structure spanning Blackburn Fork, was destroyed
This mattress from a destroyed house was left balanced on a snag
Josh wanted sixteen, and I had fourteen.
That is, he wanted to go for a sixteen mile run, and I had a fourteen mile
loop. My fourteen-mile loop went into Jackson
County , a rural place where the dogs
run free; and past Cummins
Falls where the water
runs wild.
The water of Blackburn
Fork jumps off the falls and meanders
down a narrow valley for ten miles before it joins Roaring River .
You might call the valley a gorge; it is pretty narrow at the bottom and
bounded by steep wooded slopes with some bluff outcroppings. A road surfaced
with creek gravel, paved in places, follows the stream on its journey.
But I didn’t even mean to go there, down
the gorge, I mean. The fourteen mile loop stayed above the valley. It merely
went past the falls, staying on top.
But, see, Josh wanted sixteen miles that morning.
The weather was hot, August hot. One
bottle in a waist pack is not enough for such heat. The well-equipped ultra runner
made preparations. I dug out the backpack I use for journey runs and such. It’s
a tiny thing probably designed for the shorter torso of a woman. But it is just
right. It is short enough to leave room for my regular waist pack below it. So
I can go with both the waist pack for my bottle and still have a bit of cargo
room in the little backpack.
The backpack is large enough to hold a
pair of long pants, a wind jacket, a pair of gloves and emergency medical kit.
The pack was a bladder pack before I took the bladder out. Now it’s just a
pack. It’s what I use for ultra marathons; so I don’t need drop bags, or for a
crew to meet me two hours before or two hours after I need an item. I travel
light and carry everything I need. That way, I have it when I want it.
What Josh needed was sixteen miles. In
August that distance crosses the line for a one-bottle run. So I duly filled
two extra bottles and put them in the little pack. Just in case. Those two
bottles may be responsible for what happened, because without them, I doubt we
would’ve made the decision we made that day. Or, more accurately, failed to
make the decision we should have made.
Because he did say sixteen, and once I’m
pretty sure I further heard “or more,” and I only had fourteen. I figured we’d
just run down a side road for a mile—“or more”—and add that excursion to the fourteen
miles of the loop. Which side road exactly I didn’t know. We could take our
pick.
So we shoved off at my house into the
building heat, heading toward Jackson
County , each runner with
a bottle strapped to his waist and with two extra bottles in the pack I was
wearing.
Six miles into the run we were
approaching Blackburn Fork, when we made the decision on which side road we’d
pick for our extra-distance excursion. The signpost said Blackburn Fork Rd. I was very familiar
with the road from having ridden my bike all over Jackson County .
The road stays up on the rim for a mile and a half before it drops suddenly
into the gorge, making sharp turns and switchbacks.
We headed down it. Soon a pickup
approached from behind, pulling a farm implement. We edged over.
“Dallas, you going all the way? the
driver asked, stopping.
“Nah, we’re just going part way.”
I’d never seen the man before. I shook
his hand and redundantly told him my name. He said he recognized me from having
read my newspaper stories. He had a reason for asking his question, because the
road was closed. On back roads in that country, what road closure signifies is
not so much a legal condition as a physical one—it’s impossible to travel it.
We knew a little of what had happened on
upper Blackburn Fork, at least its two branches near Cookeville . Ten days earlier, a strong flood
had covered roads, disrupted travel and work and school schedules. The two main
branches of Blackburn Fork pass into Jackson
and converge maybe a mile above the falls. The concentrated energy of the two
branches had combined in a catastrophic way. The flood had gathered strength downstream
to a degree that Josh and I didn’t yet imagine.
I’d actually seen some of the damage on the
end of the gorge near where Blackburn Fork joins Roaring River .
But most of the gorge was closed off.
Only a few people live in it, and generally speaking the gorge lies
beyond the experience of most of the local population. People didn’t know what
had happened there.
So I thought maybe Josh and I could
penetrate just a little ways and then cut and climb back out. I was carrying two extra bottles of water,
after all. The road I had in mind crossed the stream on a single-lane bridge
and climbed up to a ridge called Seven Knobs in Jackson County .
So I asked,
“What about the bridge…”
“It ain’t there,” the man cut me off—his
way of telling me I had a poor idea of what was down there. That bridge had
been there since 1937, I believe he said. He mentioned how deep the mud was,
and he talked about how he’d once enjoyed canoeing on the stream. Then he drove
on, turning in to his house just up the road. Josh and I resumed our run.
Another three-quarters-mile brought us
to the edge of the rim, where the road dipped sharply down. There in the road
stood the obligatory Road Closed sign that people in this part of the country
simply ignore and drive around.
Half way down the hill we came to a view
of the valley floor, although screened and obscured by dense tree foliage.
Through the leaves, we saw tan. Where the fields and pastures below should have
been green, we saw expansive desert tan, desert in Tennessee . The flood had stripped away green
living plants and replaced then with acres of deposited gravel bars, or gouged
out the bottom land to bedrock, in either case replacing the green background
with an alien tan overlay, at least from our distant view. Although no stranger
to floods, it was the first time I’d realized that a flood can change the very
color of environs.
We rounded a switchback, the hill’s last
sharp curve, and leveled out on the valley floor. Approaching the place where
the creek swings in close to the road, the creek on our left and steep hillside
on our right. (And here, I’ve used the work “creek” for the first time. Some
will argue with that, because the state legislature has designated the stream a
Scenic River . So they claim it’s a “River.” But
in my experience, locals refer to the stream as a creek, the legislature
notwithstanding. I’ll continue favoring the local and historical “creek” over
the legislative term.)
The road disappeared into a dark chaos
of tangled trees uprooted by the flood and swept into random piles. The road
surface vanished under a deep layer of mud, now rutted by truck tracks, but the
tracks didn’t go much farther.
There sat a car. Josh and I picked our
way through, to find a young man and his girlfriend. The young man appeared
quite drunk. They were just standing around looking in amazement, as we
approached. We were at a one-lane bridge where a branch known as Dry Creek flows
underneath just before its confluence with Blackburn Fork. The bridge was
partially covered by uprooted and broken trees. The branch had washed out the
approach on the other side. End of road.
After talking a bit with the man and
woman, Josh climbed down the other end of the bridge. It was a three or four
foot drop. As I followed, the over-solicitous young man insisted on helping
ease the old gent down and grabbed hold of my upper arm, which had the
unhelpful effect of depriving me of the use of one hand. Nonetheless, I made it
down without breaking an ankle. Josh and I picked our way though some more
downed trees and broke out on the road again.
“He’s been drinking Mimosa juice,” said
Josh, the former bartender.
“He wanted to help me. I didn’t need it,
but he wanted to. That’s okay.”
The road curved left, hard against
vertical bluffs. The flood had gone high up on those rocks far above our heads.
The creek, calm and pastoral now burbled across the gravel shoals below us
innocent of all the violence it had brought. I looked for the right place
because I wanted to show Josh something about the bluff.
“These are the bluffs I’m running in
front of on the cover of my book, Falling
Forward,” I told Josh.” This is where we made the picture, these bluffs.” I
showed Josh the place where my friend Charles Denning had gotten the low angle
by stepping part way down the creek bank, to a low angle from below the road.
“He photographed me running up and down
the road in front of these bluffs.” In one frame, the shadow of a tree on the
bluff had loomed menacingly over the motion-blurred runner. The runner’s shadow
ran across the rocks. Although the runner was blurred, his shadow on the rocks
was jarringly sharp; it was reduced in size and preceded the runner as if the
runner rushed toward his diminished future. These fleeting shadows, the
ephemeral quickness of life caught in images cast against timeless rocks and
threatened by the looming darkness filled the photo with metaphor. The picture
inspires me yet. Its feeling of menace had come true—this location had drowned
under fifteen feet of rushing water.
Farther down the road, the roadbed
simply disappeared, gouged away by the flood’s force, the road bed itself
replaced by gullies and ridges. Josh and I picked our way through. In the
distance I could see where a small rustic bridge had spanned the creek. It was
gone. One steel girder remained, its end cast in the near abutment and held
tight. The flood had bent the three-foot-deep girder like a noodle and aligned
it with the flow direction. Charles and I had made running pictures on that
bridge, too. He had laid down the floor and made a photo showing the splintered
wooden floor as I ran by. Now Josh and I had no way to even record the bridge’s
absence, or any of the other devastation around us. We had no camera; Josh
wasn’t carrying his cell phone as he usually does.
A white frame house sits on higher
ground on the right. Two dogs came tearing out barking invectives. I don’t
worry about dogs when I run with Josh, although Jackson County
is full of unleashed menacing dogs. He has a black belt in Karate. I trot
happily on, leaving him to deal with any malevolence. I figure he’ll just kick
the shit out of one out if he needs to. There is a danger in that too. The
owner may come after you with a deer rifle in his hand and vengeance in his
heart. He places the welfare of his dog a couple of rungs above that of two
strangers on foot. But these two dogs I just sweet-talked, and they turned into
tail-wagging pussycats. Their owner was more guarded,
“Who are you guys?” she wanted to know.
So we stopped and talked, and convinced her we were harmless. They’d gone
without power for seven days after the flood, she told us. During those days her
husband had stayed up guarding the darkened house. They’d had suspicious-looking
men come around late at night, would-be looters they’d figured. She had a
reason to be cautious with strangers.
We went on, running through devastation
like we’d not seen before. Whole groves of mature trees swept down and flattened
like so many corn stalks. Stretches of the creek bank had been denuded, the
trees uprooted or broken off and carried downstream and left in house-sized
piles. Just past the woman’s house a creek bottom cultivated in soybeans had
been simply erased, gouged to bedrock in places, buried by gravel and
television-sized rocks a few feet deep in other places. It was as if the Colorado River had coursed through this narrow canyon and
scoured it out.
River bottoms and creek bottoms have
existed ever since humans first occupied this land, thousands of years ago. I
believe this because you can find stone points thousands of years old on the
surface or in the top few inches of the soil. The soybean field experienced a flood
it had not seen in a similar span of time. By coincidence, only two months had
passed since Nashville
had endured what the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers called a 1,000-year flood.
Josh and I had run the Strolling Jim 41-mile ultramarathon at Wartrace, fifty
miles south of Nashville ,
that very day. And now this place, hit by a similar flood. But Josh and I were
not talking about that—until suddenly we were. We were trotting along in amazed
and morose silence, when out of the blue he spoke,
“Global warming’s not happening, right?”
“Right!”
We were being ironic. Climate scientists
have told us for twenty-five years that global warming will bring storms of
enhanced intensity and frequency. Within two months, Blackburn Fork and Nashville had both obeyed
that prediction. Severe weather is here. We’ll have to get used to it. We’ve
done nothing to stop it. And it’s too late now. It will only get worse. The
polluters and their lobbyists together with their stupid and dishonest politicians
have won.
We passed where the seventy-year-old
bridge leading to Seven Knobs used to stand. No sign of it was left, no
abutments, nothing.
Josh had become the mule now, carrying
my little pack. It contained two empty water bottles. We each were running low
on our last bottle. The creek water wasn’t safe to drink, we knew.
About half way through the gorge, Zion Road comes in
from the east rim and joins the main road, which crosses the creek there. But not
anymore; the bridge was gone, the main road cut in two at that point. Left of the
bridge approach is a grassy lawn where a brick house had stood. It had been
cleanly swept away, its pieces, bricks and all, scattered downstream. The
concrete walks remained like the house’s silent signature.
The bridge at Zion was the most emblematic scene of the
flood’s power. It had been the only modern structure spanning the creek. Its
entire three-span deck, still attached to the beams underneath, had been swept
downstream sixty yards and spun into a skewed alignment with the creek, the
near end left resting on the bank, the far end out in the water. Even the two piers,
hammer-head-shaped monoliths, had been toppled and carried downstream sixty
yards or so and left lying in the water like giant overturned mushrooms.
The bridge had been of routine construction
like dozens of such structures I’d designed myself working for the then-Tennessee
Department of Highways. This one was worth maybe half a million dollars. Its
near abutment was the only part of the entire three spans left in place. That
abutment was now covered by a house-sized pile of trees.
Josh and I worked our way through downed
trees to a point upstream where the creek flowed shallow over a gravel shoals.
We waded across the creek and climbed up to the road on the far side and ran on.
For a long time now Josh and I had been
past turning back and rejoining our loop home, even though we were running low
on water. We’d gone too far. We were committed to wherever we ended up now. And
we’d not even discussed that decision. We simply kept going forward, too
fascinated at the destruction to turn back. It’s a safe bet no one had ever
before run the length of this remote road. It’s an equal bet we were seeing the
destruction in its entirety like no one yet had. We could only run on now, the
town of Gainesboro
our likely target—for the reason that it was the only one possible, however far
it was. It was a hot day, and our lack of water was becoming worrisome
You are never prepared. I’m not. We were
running on gravels, dirt and washed-out gullies, and wading the creek. And what
was I wearing? Why the lightest pair of lightweight trainers I’d been able to
buy, not trail shoes. That is a good way to break an ankle. Both of mine have
been broken, but I think they recovered stronger than before. Sometimes I get
away with negligence.
There’s a memory on this road I told
Josh about. Many years ago I made a special ride on my mountain bike through
here. It was one of the most alluring valleys in Tennessee and a favorite place of mine. I
guess that changes now. Jim Smith and I rode our mountain bikes through here,
as we later did many times. What made that particular trip memorable was that
my youngest son Joel, maybe nine, rode with us, as did Jim’s son Andy, a few
months older than Joel. Andy had muscular dystrophy which affected his legs, and
he couldn’t ride a bike. He came along on his all-terrain-vehicle, a three
wheeler.
There was a place in the road then where
a flowing branch came into the road, turned and ran with the road. Branch and
road were one for a few feet. You rode down into the water, followed it a bit
and then it turned from the road and went on while you climbed back onto the
roadbed. At the start of the trip Jim and I told Joel and Andy about that
place, about how they’d have to go through the water. They got excited. You’d
think we’d told them they’d see Santa Claus. While we rode alongside the creek
that day, they kept asking about when we were going to ride through the water.
And, of course, they did love it once we got there, splashing the water and
whooping.
The three-wheeler was a blessing for
Andy, allowing him to participate in trips like the ride we took that day. A
year later he was killed on it, when a school bus hit him on the subdivision
road near his house. Jim lived in a rural development called Dry Creek then and
I still owned a house there myself, having recently moved. Our houses were on
the head of the same Dry Creek that flows into Blackburn Fork where Josh and I entered
the gorge on our run today.
At that place where Andy and Joel had
enjoyed the water there stood a faded old house close beside the road, one
surrounded by outbuilding, and fruit trees, the home place of an old-time
family. Josh and I were running by that place as I told him the story. The
house was now gone, swept away by the flood and scattered in pieces. An old
woman had lived there alone, I’ve heard. She was lucky enough to take refuge in
a barn on higher ground. A young man on an ATV, successor of Andy’s, rode down,
apparently on a trail through the woods, and rescued her from the barn.
Down the road a hundred yards from the
house site, Josh and I discovered a giant pile of trees thrown up against still-standing
trees beside the road. Mixed into the pile and scattered beyond it were items from
the house: a microwave oven, floor fan and so on, and articles of clothing
hanging like prayer flags from the brush. We found home-canned jars of green
beans and pears, muddy but looking perfectly good to eat once wiped off.
“Something’s dead,” Josh said. I noticed
the scent about the same time. We began looking, wondering if it was the body
of a human, a pet, or a farm animal. Josh and I spread out. We poked around in
the piles of brush. The scent came and went. I began back tracking the wind.
Concentrating, I was aware a car passed. (The one bridge left standing was the
last one near Roaring River Road
and crews had repaired the road on that end enough that cars could come in from
there.) I followed the scent to a depression against the road bank, and found a
collection of minnows that had been trapped and died there when the flood
receded. I called Josh over and we stood looking down at little fish that stunk
out of proportion to their actual size. Mystery solved without drama.
“Was that two women in a red convertible?”
I asked.
“They were not attractive.”
“Uh.”
When you hold an ace in the hole, you
need to be certain it actually is an ace. Charles Denning and I once went
hiking in the mountains in the dead of winter where it can get dangerously
cold. Our route was long and the sun got low and we began to wonder if we’d
make it to the truck before dark. Spending a night in the wilderness began to
seem a possibility. There were many overhanging bluffs and caves where we could
take shelter. If need be we’d just build a fire for warmth and light. For
Charles’ benefit I dramatically produced the butane cigarette lighter I carry
for such emergencies, held it up and gave it a flick. Results were notable for
their absolute absence: no flame. Flick, flick, flick, flick, and still no
flame. In fact, no flame ever came from that traitor of a lighter. I should
have checked it beforehand. It had been stored with my hiking stuff for a long
time and had lost its pressure, I reckon.
By the time Josh and I crossed the only
bridge left standing on Blackburn Fork—out of four—our water was nearly gone.
We’d been stretching it out. But, of course, that only allows one to get more
dehydrated and does little to conserve the total combined fluids contained in
bottle and body.
My ace in the hole was just one half
mile farther. A spring seeps out of the bluffs beside the road. An ancient
plumber of springs had stuck an iron pipe in the bluff crevice decades ago,
capturing and running the pattering little stream right out to the thirsty
traveler. Just stick your bottle under it. And you don’t even have to turn off
the faucet that the plumber didn’t provide to the everlasting spring that never
stops.
When we got there, the everlasting
spring that forever brings cold, life-giving water, that non-ending stream of
the thirsty runner’s dream, that very spring had, in point of fact, gone bone
dry. We’d get no water there. I’ve filled my bike bottle there. I’d never seen
it dry before. My ace had turned into a joker.
It was a half mile further to the Roaring River Road ,
and from there, an uncertain distance on to Gainesboro—maybe in the range of
six to seven miles, I vaguely figured from my memory of riding the road. My
guess would prove to be not bad wrong, and would end up pushing our total
distance to twenty-one miles by the time we reached Gainesboro.
We headed down the two-lane blacktop,
fully catching the sun’s heat now, running beside Roaring River .
Our lack of water began to tell. Josh is half my age, hence, more able than I
to shuck off the heat and dehydration. Nonetheless, we ran together down that
road carrying empty bottles in our waist packs and Josh carrying two empties in
the backpack, little more now than relics of a water-blessed past.
Occasionally we walked, getting
gradually tired and slow. Josh ran on. I began to trail behind. Cramps had set
in on my legs. I could only go so fast before the cramps seized hard. I did
what I could.
“Josh, go on. Don’t wait for me.” But he
did wait.
“The first thing you’ll come to is a
liquor store,” I said.
It was true. On the lower end of Roaring River —preceding the town itself—sits a
campground belonging to the Corps of Engineers. The liquor store, as well as a
companion grocery store, sat across the road from it. Because of the campers, that
had once been a good location. Then the campground closed, followed by the
grocery store. Now, only the liquor store remained.
“At least I hope it’s still there.”
But I didn’t know for sure. I hoped we
could fill our bottle there. But I feared it might have dried up like the
spring.
Ultra-runners know you can log a long
distance if you simply keep going forward. We were getting closer, but also
getting thirstier. So thirsty, that Josh took a chance. We came to a house on a
hill above the road. We could see a frost-free faucet standing in the yard
beside the house. Josh carried the empty bottles across the yard. I stood in
the road watching to see if he was going to be shot. He lifted the faucet
handle. Not one drop of water came out. Apparently it had been disconnected.
He looked around and found a coiled
water hose connected to a faucet on the house’s foundation. Now he was really
pushing his luck. If anybody was home, they’d likely hear the water flowing in
the pipes under the floor. Josh turned on the faucet and filled all four
bottles. He came walking back smiling. Nobody showed up waving a shotgun.
“You were taking a chance.”
“I figured it was die of thirst or be
shot.”
I took a long swig. And at once spit it
out on the hot pavement. The water out of that hot hose tasted like water out
of a tractor tire, full of chemicals, the taste thereof anyway.
“That stuff’ll kill you!”
We trudged morosely on, still thirsty,
carrying the weight we didn’t need of the water we didn’t dare drink. But we
were getting close. Soon we came to the closed campground, the gated roads and
weeds between camp sites. And I knew we were there.
The liquor store was, too, and still
open, even though there were no customers until we walked in. Yes, we were
customers. Josh had revealed his ace in the hole—an emergency twenty-dollar
bill. A lone woman sat behind the counter.
“You got any Cokes or Dr. Pepper?” I
asked.
“We don’t sell anything but liquor.”
That’s all their license permits, she told us.
“Well can we fill up our bottles? You
got a bathroom or something?”
She took me to bathroom in an unfinished
utility room at the back, and turned on a light. While I was pouring out bad
water and filling bottles with good water, Josh was prowling around in the
cooler. He found a drink called Jim Beam Cola in an aluminum can, and a daiquiri
by Jose Cuervo in a plastic bottle. I saw him purchase two of the colas. Then
he called his wife Martha on the store’s land line to see if she could drive to
Gainesboro and pick us up. Arrangements were made: we’d meet her at the Marathon station, which, with a name like that, was the
appropriate place.
We walked out of there smiling, and
drinking the colas, in violation of open container laws, I am sure. It was
afternoon now and we’d had nothing to eat, but the cold colas compensated for
that. We had about a mile to go, and we walked down the shoulder sipping on the
cans. Josh and I happened to actually be talking about how we were surely violating
the law when the sheriff’s car passed.
“There goes the sheriff, Josh said. And
then, “Well, he’s not stopping.”
“I don’t give a damn if he does.” My
patience with all things contrary was worn out.
Suddenly Josh crushed his can.
“Man, you finished that in a hurry. I’m
sipping on mine to make it last longer.”
“I got a couple of those daiquiris in
the pack.”
“Oh.”
So we opened the daiquiris, kept walking,
and finished them too. When we hit the Marathon
station we saw Martha pulling in at the lot. She’d been prompt. Josh and I had just
had two quick drinks on empty stomachs. We went in the station’s store.
“Want to get some beer, Dallas ?” Josh said. He had a ten spot left
from the emergency twenty. We went to the cooler.
“Budweiser is what you want,” I said. I
pulled out a quart can. Josh grabbed a quart of Corona Extra. We sat them on
the counter and got in line to pay behind a couple of other customers. A
uniformed officer, a woman with a badge and a gun got in line behind me. I
turned.
“Catch any crooks today?”
Nope, she didn’t. I was telling her we’d
run from Cookeville ,
that we’d come through the flood damage on Blackburn Fork, and had she been up
there to see it yet, and she hadn’t, and then I became aware of a querulous discussion
going on behind my back. I turned to see what in the world was going on now.
Josh was holding the ten out, but the
clerk wouldn’t take it. He was demanding an ID, and Josh was trying to tell him
we’d been running and didn’t have any and…
My patience really was exhausted. I
didn’t want to hear it. I snatched the ten out of Josh’s hand and thrust in at
the clerk.
“Here, I’m buying this stuff. Do I look
old enough?”
The clerk made a slow grin, took the ten
and gave me the change. I turned and dropped it into Josh’s hand. We scooped up
our beers and dashed out. Martha was waiting.
Josh and I drank the quarts while Martha
drove us back to Cookeville .
She dropped us off at my house, turned around and left us standing in the
driveway. It was mid-afternoon. We’d now each had the equivalent of four drinks
on an empty stomach. I unfolded a couple of yard chairs in the shade in front
of Josh’s car, where he’d parked it that morning.
“Josh, you want another beer?” I had a refrigerator stocked in the garage.
So that’s how we finished the day, sitting
in the shade and nursing a beer each, talking about the day’s astonishing
scenes. We’d seen a remote rustic valley, one of my favorite places, devastated
by flood damage unprecedented in our experience. We’d run twenty-one miles on a
hot August day with not enough to drink, and with nothing to eat—on a run we’d
never intended to make in the first place. We’d spent extra time exploring
damage, and, thus, had gotten more dehydrated than twenty-one miles would usually
indicate.
Around three-thirty we finally got
something to eat. Jo Ann brought out sandwiches, ham on croissant.